The purge solenoid is not very expensive to replace. As we pulled out of the lot we noticed that the transmission was shifting very hard. There are no unaccounted for fuel lines anywhere near the tank: the canister associated with the fuel evap system is located just in front of the tank. After 3 days the check engine light was still on as well as the check tire light. Can you please give me some clue to what is going on? Now one code that comes up is usually P0449, along with maybe a warning to check the gas cap to see if it is on tight. Any further thoughts on troubleshooting this code will be appreciated. Hope helps remember to rate this answer.
I then packed up my tools and rand errands and the ses light came back on with the same code. Also the knowledge to use all that stuff your best bet would be to take it in somewhere those tool's are very expensive. Now don't ask yourself; What should you do with P0446 code? This open to allow you to fill your tank, then closes after some inputs for the computer are satisfied, and then a pressure sensor verifies the system is working. I hooked it all back up, cleared my codes, and so far I'm good to go I've one run it a few minutes so far, but before the code would regenerate essentially instantaneously. It is easy money for them and obviously a defective part they keep using for the last 10 or 15 years but hey, its money in their pocket.
Spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or 25 hours of use. Ok it has to be code p011 and p013 there is no 12. The vent control valve is normally open; it controls the air supply into the canister. The cause can be as simple as bad spark plugs, and bad spark plug wires on engines that still use them. That higher octane means the fuel is harder to ignite. So you should chech it on our car models. The check engine light came on.
Do you mean it had a misfire fault code? Our car has 100,000 miles on it. The light could mean a costly problem, like a bad catalytic converter, or it could be something minor, like a loose gas cap. But just incase keep an eye out for possible leaks. Drivers door switch won't work and rear door switch won't work, but all the other windows work fine I can't believe it would be the motor the truck is almost brand new. Continue driving and see if the check engine light turns off. Less common causes are a bad ignition coil and a plugged or shorted injector.
It idle low and rough and then starting lurching forward like its going to die, I have had to put it in park and give it a little gas for fear it was going to die. I then removed the Evap canister vent solenoid. The codes came back misfire and muti misfire. Get under the vehicle after putting on the parking brake. Check or just replace the gasket on the fuel cap and make certain it is tightened after each fuel fill. Visually inspect the vent valve for cracks or damage.
Now Engine light remains on and has been for four weeks. Codes can be set and will drive you crazy trying to figure out if you have a bad gas cap, broke lines---this is where they try to get you to do a smoke test, or you just think the vehicle is no good. All you need to do is take the old one off and screw on the new one. Unwrap the wires and make sure they are clean. Now don't ask yourself; What should you do with P0449 code? These can range from a faulty spark plug lead, shorted kill switch or flywheel key damage. Often a problem with the gas cap, try tightening the cap, reset the code and see if it comes back on.
The code read was for a camshaft sensor, I took it in to a guy I know and he pulled the sensor and it was covered in oil, he told me oil should not be getting in this area at all. If this does not work, try turning the collar just behind the keyswitch counter clockwise while trying to remove the key. All of my research showed that the solenoid often goes bad and the vent valve gets stuck causing a thrown code. You can get a replacement plug at any part store if that's bad. But I just can't figure where the solenoid is I sorta think there are two solenoids? The vent solenoid is by the charcoal canister at the gas tank. A: You might need to have the problem diagnosed properly at a dealer or auto repair shop.
Then just go under and plug the new one in and the problem is solved. Make sure that you inspect all the wiring carefully and make all necessary repairs hope this helps Jan 17, 2010. I took the car to Pepboys and had the plugs replaced. Gas even though it says 87 in the manual. These codes are camshaft actuator solenoid not the sensor so it needs to be tested by a pro as they have to have certain resistance in them if not they are bad. Check for a rubbed-through or chafed wiring harness.
The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records. The first thing is to have the diagnostic fault codes read. The control module monitors the status of the driver. They can cause misfires that the Engine Computer will detect but you can't really feel. It would come on and last for 2 days, then go off more a few weeks, then start to come on more and more often and would turn off for a few days.
I'm going to try to take it off today, and see if I can assure that it functions after all, it's just a solenoid, I ought to be able to confirm that it's snapping open and shut and also check everything for leaks. Replaced the canister vent valve unit, electrical connection seemed to be completely fine. Low oil and low oil pressure will cause this code to set. He cleaned the sensor put it back in and it drove fine for a few days, now back to the problems starting again. My light is off as of right now, but it has only been one day. They said that they reset the system after replacing the plugs. The codes are reset but of course now you have to reset the radio and clock stuff.