My understanding is it is something that can cause some greif if you do not get it fixed at once. Also check if any vacuum leaks. Any help would be greatly appreciated. So I ordered a set for my 2006 S60, sure enough they were also 19mm long, but the joy ended when I removed the old plugs. The latter because the car is taking an age to warm up. My oldest daughter will be learning to drive soon and I can say with complete confidence that I feel that she will be safe in the Volvo C30.
Advance Auto pulled the code and it came up: P2187 - System too lean at idle - Bank 1 Any clue what this could be? The problem is caused by the variable cylinder management system switching on and off during light throttle conditions, at cruising speeds, or when driving on flat roads. The scanner read P2180 and P2178: system too rich off idle bank one and two, P2192 and P2194: system too rich higher load bank one and two, P0103: Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. In such cases, other components like the catalyst can temporarily compensate for the part that is broken however, these other components can only do double duty for so long before they, too, begin to malfunction. When your car's 'Volvo 140 P2178 Check Engine' light comes on, it's usually accompanied by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. We are located in Temecula California and perform Volvo Check Engine Light testing and repair for the following cities: Temecula, Murrieta, Menifee, Lake Elsinore, Fallbrook, Hemet and Winchester. I'll post if I have any success.
Fuel trim from cold having re-set the computer was pretty good, a spike of -22, then one of -19, then a third of -16. The vehicle service manual should be consulted for more information on possible causes of the fault, along with required testing. Not many others can match our knowledge and dedication to providing the very best customer service in the market. You may have noticed increased fuel consumption, loss of power and general 'lazyness'. Maybe then I can get the pump numbers up to the dash numbers? While I am updating, I thought it worth mentioning the fuel consumption figures.
I had to 'drill' it out with a 10mm drill, by hand, to clean out the crud. So that was not a total waste of time and it did not cost a great deal. So now it was up to me to sort out the issue. I noticed reading here that many get the code, but they don't necessarily say if there were symptoms or not. So you should chech it on our car models. Well, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to work out that the problem came back and this post is an update of what I have done so far to try and cure it.
So what did the software say? An added benefit is that the oil consumption has been greatly reduced by the replacement of the oil trap under the intake manifold. No other codes by the way. Spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or 25 hours of use. The car also appeared to warm up quicker. The solution is here : Volvo 140 P2178 Possible Solution : Disconnected, dirty or fouled spark plugs are common causes for engines that won't start. Ideally, the Long Term Fuel Trim should be close to 1 to 2 percent.
The engine was at normal operating temperature. The only things I did related to fuel burning rich was the fuel filter and spark plugs. I started mine today and it is well clogged. On that basis, I have ordered the right ones from them. I checked their spec on this site and they are both 19mm long. I opened the hood to look for obvious things, and there it was - a gaping hole in the Intercooler hose - the piece between the radiator and the long plastic duct over the top.
The previous owner got 28mpg at the dash! The extra turbo feature is just plain cool. So far this week the light has stayed off. A quick e-mail to and I confirmed that their 'Engine Check Pro' software would work with the Volvo S60's electronics. Everything I have seen on the Internet so far has told me that 'sensor 1' should swing back and forth between 0. If your spark plugs look good, problems with your ignition system can also preventing a spark. My daily commute takes me along a pretty busy 'A' road, through a couple of villages and then onto a ten mile stretch of dual carriageway, before sitting in traffic for three miles.
I didn't touch any of the air stuff except the pipe going across the top of the engine to get to the plugs and I have readjusted the clamps and I can't believe there is an air leak there now. One week of commuting has been passed without incident, so I may have found the cure. This causes the fuel system to malfunction. It is small enought to whip around corners but big enough for the family with a spacious back seat. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.
After a fourteen hour weekend, I gave up and borrowed the wife's car to get to work on Monday. So replacing them would have been a good move. If you are doing this to keep your car? This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters 1,000 feet of altitude. These can range from a faulty spark plug lead, shorted kill switch or flywheel key damage. Checking the air filter, it has taken a real hammering from the harvest dust from a few months back. So we shall have to see how that has affected the pump numbers.
Probably should clean or change the airfilter first, then go from there. Well ultimately that was my problem though it did take me 3-4 weeks and probably 3 code resets I finally just bought my own code reader so I could reset them each time. In this case, if the cam timing is over-retarded, the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The sound is coming from the belt side not the turbo side. Note: - Some small black specs are from the cutting process. The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.