I don't know if there are any differences between the 2-door and the 4-door, nor if there were any changes between 2007 or 2008. Also when alternator problem addressed make sure main 40 to 80 amp max fuse is not blown out. Only get to stop once in a while. I don't have edit permission on the original thread, so moderators, please delete the original thread so as to not clutter up the board. Both times I was able to turn over the engine while the alarm was on with no issues. In response to your question the vehicle is north american, when looking out windshield the driver is seated on the left. I have been informed about a delay relay, such as the overhead lighting after door is opened or closed.
When you put them back in one at a time, you get the same power draw every time? Of course, if it is blown you need to replace it but, then you may also need to look for a short somewhere. I think in that way you get closer to where the problem is. I would try my door cycle suggestion first, make sure when you do the door cycle you the battery cable touching the battery post so ast to not draw excessive current through your meter, just make sure when you disconnect the battery cable from the post you never break the circuit through the meter. Is your jeep right hand driven? Sometimes all you need to do is remove and re-seat the fuse. Just to be on safe side recheck battery ground and other ground wires that may have been disturbed during repair.
This junction block is situated on the left hand side under the dash. As far as i know there is only 1 junction block, with the fuses on the cabin side and the relays above them. Was due to a wiring harness of some sort near left foot well. I originally had an issue with a stuck sunroof that I thought was the cause of power loss. To turn the alarm off I had to start the Jeep and everything was fine.
See photos: thanks so much, that I will do. You know that there is an accessory delay relay, which is probably activated as soon as you put the fuse back in and will stay activated for some 40 sec or so. Paid for out of warranty. Any help will be greatly appreciated before I become a permanent part of my battery charger!!!! As far as i know there is only 1 junction block, with the fuses on the cabin side and the relays above them. I've also included the fuse listing from the owner's manual for convenience. When you put them back in one at a time, you get the same power draw every time? This are the high power 50A fuses. The video above shows how to replace blown fuses in the interior fuse box of your 2008 Jeep Commander in addition to the fuse panel diagram location.
I have gone under hood and pulled every fuse 1 by 1 and replaced 1 by 1 to find the following. This are the high power 50A fuses. I,ve checked every ground point I can locate and all appear in good condition. I tried to jump it anyway just in case. If your Commander has many options like a sunroof, navigation, heated seats, etc, the more fuses it has. I used the key to unlock the door and when I opened it the alarm went off.
I was just the positive wire shield that was burnt through. I have resolved that issue, but still have a power drain. However the lights were not dim at all , slider roof opened no problem , and everything else electrical was working fine. Yes, she is finally running after 5 months in the geerage. I was surprised the first time because I thought the battery was dead however I expected it this time. I attempted a few more times standing next to the door and still no response from the jeep.
I also located a broken ground cable on the transmission which can be easily repaired. Done that too and I still have a power draw. As I stated earlier passenger side behind kick panel upper bolt in connector, now would removing this connector after pulling and replacing every fuse 1 X 1 eliminate the draw. I have worked on it further and this is what I came accross. This junction block is situated on the left hand side under the dash. I opened the fuse box, didn't see anything out of the ordinary didn't test each fuse , pushed down on each fuse and looked at the display again and the message disappeared. Take the fuse one at a time and put the probe one to each fuse contacts.
Since the fuse layout map on the inside cover of the fuse box is tough to read for those of us with older eyes, and since there have been several threads requesting such a diagram, I thought I'd go ahead and post this for whoever finds it useful. . There are 2 horizontally situated connectors in between the fuses and the relays. When you took out all the lower power fuses on the Junction Block itself, and one by one put them back in, on which positions did you get the current draw? When I did turn the key the dash lights would all turn off completely i read that this is a good sign that the ignition is ok? If anyone sees any mistakes, let me know immediately and I'll fix it. Any info on upper junc-block loads will be appreciated. A build in progress, slow, slow, slow progress, but progress. This is a repost to correct two minor cosmetic errors in the original thread.
All are interconnected somehow in which I do not have a clue how to narrow the problem down. Causing ignition not to work. As I mentioned in my earlier post I pulled every single fuse under hood and replaced one by one until I found the current draw. Some Jeeps have multiple interior fuse boxes including in the trunk - the video above will show you where the interior fuse box of your 2008 Commander is located. Thanks Michael However today I got out of work went to start the liberty and nothing happened. I am just finally glad I can start driving her.